Archive for June, 2009

Because We Love Coffee, Tattoos, and Bikes More Than You.

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Normally I spend my much deserved day off drinking PBR, eating cake, and smack talking. But this Saturday was the Latte Art competition, so I bagged some booze and biked up to the Works. Now, I’ve long since retired my tamping skills, ’cause I’m in the Tea dept now, but a few friends were competing, and like any true friend, I needed to heckle/cheer them through there slightly jitters and nervous game faces. The Training Lab was a clusterfist of hipster coffee geekism, random aficionados from different shops meeted and greeted all breathing the draft-less humid air that is Chicago summer. Pit stained and drinking beer, there was a commonality; the love of coffee preparation and aesthetics, the ability to decipher flavor complexities through fancy jargon, and the excitement within to throw down espresso style. Latte art! What?! And we all had tattoos.

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In typical fashion, a slightly belligerent Mike Phillips herded the lemmings, random strays, and coffee orphans through the battle terms. Five bucks a head, winner takes all. La Marzocco triple basket double boiler with bottomless portafilters was about to be manhandled by a plethora of baristas. Contestants names would be pulled randomly, you could jiggle your wrist any way you pleased, but you only got one shot at it and one pour. Your creation, would be thrown into the limbo of flickr, awaiting judgment giveth by Marcus Boni, Liz Clayton and someone else I can’t remember. The holiness of your Latte soul would be condemned on a 1 to 10 scale, based on balance of symmetry, color infusion, and overall beauty. The results would then be available as instant as the internet can blink. First up, effin g-$ from mill park, and we cheer. We herded around him, breathing down his back like a micro managers on vendettas; taking pictures, whispering sweet nothings; which prolly didn’t aid in his smoothness, but was totally necessary nonetheless. Similar story for every contestant.

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Now, I had a nice list going of the competitors and their respective shop, but its irrelevant now, seeing as I only really cared when my friends went up. Somewhere out there, in the internet awesomeness, exists a list of everyone who tried, prolly flickr. What I do recall is the nervous excitement of every participant, and somewhat disbelief in themselves, but ef that, everyone bucked up their skills and gave it what they had, some where intoxicated and others are lame. Definitely a lot of giggles, whiskey, and lamentations over smoke breaks. Outbursts of cheers echoed through the warehouse as each participant’s minion rooted them on. It’s great being surrounded by others like you, not having to explain what you “do” and why it matters, just good o’le nerdy pretentious fun. It goes without saying that some pours where rad and others god awful, but it was all in good humor, I think.

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So who won? Well, my friends were kicked off the top ten, so I dunno, thank the High Life tall boys for my incompetence, ’cause, dude, I had a weekened night to fullfill, priorities first. Whatevs, it was prolly Stephen Morissey. Alas, if you want to call me out on inaccuracies, and prove my inability to function, then just do it, I can count on Todd Burbo for that. Because Adam asked me to write this and he knows how much I love dirty talking. So “hump the air, and call it a day.” Goodrich.

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All photos from Sarah T at  http://www.weeimagery.blogspot.com

Head over there to see the rest of the photos from the contest!

Tea!

Last week I had the distinct pleasure of attending a tea tasting at the Roasting Works with Intelligentsia’s very own Doug Palas, tea buyer extraordinaire. On the table were our new white teas, Moonlight White, Osthmanthus Silver Needles, and Snow Sprout, as well as our new Oolong, Purple Jade Oolong; all of which are now available by the bag and by the pot at our retail stores.

Your humble author seated at the cupping table.

Your humble author seated at the cupping table.

Your humble author seated at the cupping table.

Breaking open some buds.

The setups.

The setups.

More setups.

More setups.

The main man, Doug.

The main man, Doug.

Check out Doug’s descriptions of all our teas over here and come on in to any of our retail stores to try them out!

“Because cookies are good with milk…”

The poster designed by Andy Wickstrom

The poster designed by Andy Wickstrom

Well, that was fun. For those of you who didn’t stop by the closed Broadway on Thursday, or talked to one of the many baristas working so hard on their craft all last week, or you know, read an earlier blog post, Thursday marked the date of the Inaugural Cookie Championship: a company wide latte art throwdown . As I documented earlier, we were all striving for the gold, bettering our skills in hopes of bringing home the glory and super secret prize.  And what a prize it turned out to be: a custom-made Espresso Parts tamper, with a wood handle engraved with the Black Cat Project logo and “Inaugural Cookie Championship” engraved on the tamp.  Sweet.

Stephen holding the prize of the night, the custom tamper

Stephen holding the prize of the night, the custom tamper

After closing down Broadway early, a good number of the baristas made the long trek to the Loop to visit our southern siblings at the Millennium Park store. A crowd had already gathered, with coworkers from Monads, production and our hosts of Mil Park. Competitors placed their names in a bean hopper before munching on some pizza and drinking some beers, generously provided by Intelli.  After some rousing speeches from Stephen Morrissey and Geoff Watts, the names of the competitors were placed into a bracket, randomly, for the one shot, one pour competition. What this means is that each person got one attempt, pull a shot, pour some art. No practice, no do-overs. Tough stuff.

Gordon squaring off against Matt Riddle

Gordon squaring off against Matt Riddle

Without hesitation, the competition got underway. Each competitor poured, then placed their drink on the counter, where the incomparable Matt Riddle had rigged up a camera and projector, so that all the spectators could see the beautiful drink five feet high on the wall behind. The drink was then judged on a number of criteria by three judges: Geoff Watts, Doug Palas , and Jay Cunningham, with the big cheese Doug Zell taking over during the second round.  The brackets progressed quickly, and soon, after much yelling, cheering, eating, judging and spilling, the contest was decided.

The winning shot

The winning shot

Amy Lawlor of Millennium Park beat out our own Adam Gaspar to take home the prize. I like to think that we are all winners here though, after all, we got to leave work early to go and have an amazing time doing what we love so much. That’s a pretty great prize just for competing.

Link to the full Intelligentsia Flickr set.

Come, gather ’round the Chemex

We’ve developed a bit of a ritual at the Broadway coffee bar: Whenever a fresh-crop or a new blend arrives – we brew up a Chemex, taste, sample and analyze it.

Gordon and Talya smell the dry grounds. Roasted coffee is like grass — after it's cut, a huge amount of aromatics are released

Gordon and Talya smell the dry grounds of our El Salvador. Roasted coffee is like grass — after it's cut, a huge amount of aromatics are released.

The Chemex is ideal for sampling because it’s easy to produce a good brew with very simple, consistent specifications.

This is in contrast to the Clover, the default brew device at our coffee bar, which can produce a fantastic cup, but requires exacting specifications for each bean and much trial-and-error to ‘dial it in’.

This final result of a good Chemex is a clean cup with a delicate body and intact fine-flavor notes.

The first small pour of water over the exposed grounds allow the coffee to 'bloom.' Here, gas is released and the coffee expands and bubbles

The first pour of water over the exposed grounds allows the coffee to 'bloom'. Here, gas is released as the coffee expands and bubbles.

As the staffers sit around and taste our new beans, we talk about what we are experiencing in a stream-of-consciousness way.

“Strawberry Jam!” a barista said while tasting our El Machete washed Panama.

“Very savory smelling,” another said while taking a whiff of our new Honduras, La Tortuga.

Nicole contemplates the flavors of our washed Panama, El Machete

Nicole contemplates the flavors of our fresh-crop El Salvador, Los Inmortales.

The other day we brewed up our newest Central American:  Los Inmortales, El Salvador. The silky mouthfeel carries flavors of apple and white grape with just a bit of a bright snap. Indeed, this fresh crop may be my favorite of this year’s Central Americans.

Michelle Pours the final brew

Michelle Pours the final brew.

Click here to put together the ideal Chemex home brew kit.

2 Days to Go!

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Talya begins one of her practice pours

Thursday June 4th marks the date of the Inaugural Cookie Championship, a Chicago company-wide latte art throwdown hosted by our siblings at the Millennium Park store. The contest will be “one shot, one pour” into a vessel of the competitor’s choosing. The Broadway kids are pumped. All the downtime this week has been spent honing our milk steaming, art pouring skills. Come Thursday, Broadway will be ready!

Talya's finished product

Talya's finished product

Mike watches his shot

Mike watches his shot

Mike starting his pour

Mike starting his pour

My shot finishing up

My shot finishing up

My mid pour

My mid pour

Chicago baristas ride ‘the mass’ together

It’s no secret that many baristas cherish bikes as much as portafilters — barreling through traffic as much as throwing back espresso.

So last Friday a few of us went riding together in Chicago’s Critical Mass ride.

Charlie, Adam S and new-hire Jonathan from the Broadway store along with Liza from Metropolis Coffee (one of our cherished ‘regulars’) and Tiff from Nobel Tree cafe rode together. Over 1000 other cyclists took over our city’s streets this month on a very happy friday.

This month’s ride weaved through the Loop, Pilsen, Chinatown, Wicker Park and everywhere between.

Do you like to ride? Join the Chicago Barista Bicylce Club!

Through the Loop we go...

Through the Loop we go...

Jonathan is ready to ride.

Jonathan is ready to ride.

Helmets and water are essential, ya heard?

Charlie and Adam S say wear helmets and drink water – ya heard?

Liza!!

Liza!!

Dueling Machetes

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On Saturday May 23rd a few of us at the Broadway shop hosted the first of what we hope will become a regular collaboration (a “house blend”, if I may get the pun off my chest) of staff and public. Nothing gives us a greater joy at Broadway than indulging the curiosity of our customers, so we were thrilled by the turnout—Talya and I had to joyfully tear open extra tasting glasses at the last minute—of friends, loving regulars, and our fellow coffee restless.

In the shop, customers often catch us scribbling or slurping—occasionally arguing—behind the counter during slower periods, so they can see just how perplexing even our “own” product can continue to be despite the hours of espresso practice or mornings of pushing and pulling brew specifications on the Clovers when we’re deciding what to serve. Welcome to our world, where we chase perfection of a thing that is never at rest, that is affected by endless variables during its odyssey from branch to cup. Multiply this endlessness by the fact that coffee is an organic life form, ever breathing and aging and changing, and you’ve finally understood our challenge at Intelligentsia: to appreciate equally our success and our bewilderment.

The inspiration behind Saturday’s event was one particular success; a pair of brand new offerings from Finca Santa Teresa, Panama, Intelligentsia’s own Direct Trade El Machetes. You can read more about the plantation, including the part about farmer Juan Pablo constructing a school house for local children (!) in Geoff Watts’ “Nod” to the El Machetes…and I recommend you do because Geoff’s prose can be, well, moving.

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These two coffees are great side by side because they illustrate what a difference just one variable—in this case a particular processing step—can have on the final product, all else being equal in the beans’ journey from Santa Teresa to the Broadway store. Last Saturday Mike Phillips and team led the gathering in an intimate workshop designed to unpack the importance of this particular variable. It was a welcome repose from the typical pace of Saturday afternoons at the shop. And I, for one, never realized how seductive our store’s newest lighting scheme was until I noticed the big wood table sparkling with tasting glasses and that glossy plate of cherries resting in the middle (nice touch, whoever thought that up). Top off the décor with a little of Mike’s ambient coffee-speak, and I’m pretty sure we all started to feel a little happy-drunk.

Into the cup. The Panamas we offer include a fully washed and a semi-washed, or “pulped natural,” version of the same coffee from Santa Teresa. Both processes involve a partial de-pulping of the coffee cherry after it’s picked from the tree, during which the outer skin and most of the mucilage (think, fruit flesh) of the cherry is removed, thus exposing the bean (think, cherry seed). In the washed process, the beans, mucilage still hanging, are submerged in water tanks where they’re left to ferment for anywhere between 12 and 36 hours, until the remaining mucilage has decomposed enough where it can be washed from the bean entirely. After this is done the beans are buffed and laid naked to dry (then to the dry mill, storage, our Roasting Works, your cupboard). In the pulped natural process, by contrast, the beans are laid directly out to dry after the de-pulping, during which the mucilage continues clinging to the bean rather than being washed away after fermentation.

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For those familiar with our offerings and roast profiles, the characteristics of a washed coffee may be obvious: bright, articulate cups with a titillating complexity of flavors. Pulped natural coffees on the other hand produce bigger, rounder cups, often with subdued acidity and a denser sweetness (the reason why so much of Brazil’s coffee, mostly pulped natural, makes an optimal base for espresso blends).

It was a pleasure to watch our guests notice the drastic difference between the two cups they slurped along with us on the 23rd. When brewed correctly the pulped natural El Machete gives a creamy, stout-like body and one of the most lingering cocoa-y finishes I’ve tasted yet. The washed El Machete on the other hand, is actually like “rambling through a berry patch,” as the retail bag suggests—strawberries!—and boasts the same mouth-watering clarity that our drinkers have come to expect from our other Central America offerings.

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Saturday was great. For those who weren’t able to make it, there will be more gatherings, and we want you to come. Our intentions are not, certainly, to drag customers into the same inner circle of madness—the one that we find ourselves while parsing endless variables in coffee production and preparation…but getting a taste of it is kind of a thrill, right?

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